Welds and Weld Filters in Raptor

Hi, I'm Duane Bates, the pre-installation and training department manager at Peddinghaus. In this video I will be discussing corrections in Raptor, specifically the welds, weld filters and miters tab.

On the welds tabs you can decide how you want to correct your welds, whether you want to move or cut them. This refers to any weld symbols that may be in the safety distance near a flange or something like that. This will move them so they can be scribed, or it will cut them. If it's in the safety distance it will cut off anything in that area. If you want to scribe your welds you will probably want to move them so you get the entire weld scribe. You can decide what the minimum text height for those weld symbols will be. I set it at 3/8".

On the welds filters tab you will notice we have different profile tabs. They're all identical. Once you know how to set one up you'll know how to set up the rest. Make sure you have them set up the way you need them to be. First thing is weld style. You can either do full lines, pop marks or corner lines. I have it set for full lines. That way it scribes the entire weld symbol. Otherwise, I'm going to get pop marks where weld symbols are. I can get corner lines and it will only give me bits of the weld symbol. Safety distance from edge, we can pull the scribes back from the edge so we don't scribe something out on the edge and potentially damage the tool. Safety distance from flange is only for the Peddiwriter. Flange height from web is essentially the length of the Peddiwriter torch. The safety distance below flange height is half the diameter of the torch plus a little bit extra so we have clearance to the inside of the flange. Safety distance above flange height is half the width of the mechanism above the torch. This is so we make sure that mechanism is not running into the flange as well. All of these values can be measured directly on the torch physically. Any weld symbols that might be outside the material can be clipped or cut off by checking that box.

The next tab we have is the miters tab. You are going to enter the values for your saw. If you're using one of our larger 1100 or 1250DG saws, those values are -60 to 60. You need to do that on both lead and trail edge, or left and right edge. Once you have something outside that range, it will automatically convert it to what we have chosen. Those machines are not capable of doing a wide miter. A wide miter is a flange miter. They are not capable of doing that, so we leave it at 0. Set the perimeters of cutting across the web, or Z miter. Once it's outside of the range choose to either do nothing with it, remove it, put pop marks where that cut is, scribe it or cope it. If you happen to have a copper, this is a really easy way to make a compound miter. If you have something that has a flange and web cut that are both at a miter you can program those just as a miter cut. This will automatically turn it into a cope. If you don't have a mitering saw, you can set those perimeters up here all for 0. Any time it has a miter it will automatically turn it into something else. It gives you many choices to turn it into other features that can then be done in a secondary process.

Whatever you choose we have to have a kerf value. That is the amount of material that will be removed in the cut. Put a value in there so Raptor adds the extra material for you. This way your part doesn't end up too short. If you are going to run this on a coper you need to tell it where you're going to split the web cut. The web is either going to start in the center and go one way, come back, then go the other way. It can also start at the flange inside at one side and cut to inside the flange on another side. Tell it what percentage of that web you want to actually cut, or where you want that cut to start. I typically leave it at 0, so I'm starting just inside that flange and going to the other flange.

A double Z miter is a miter that goes two different directions on the web. You can tell it to do nothing, remove it, pop mark it or scribe it. It can also do underside marks. You need to have an underside scriber to take care of that. Here, you're going to tell it how to handle those. A typical double Z miter is the bottom of a stair stringer. I typically set it for scribe. I'm going to set it for cope because I am going to a coper, or for scribe because I'm going to have someone cut this by hand later on. Those are my two normal choices.

For any other service-related questions please contact Peddinghaus support at 1-815-937-3800 and press 2 for technical assistance. Visit our website at www.peddinghaus.com for more how-to videos and additional machine information.